Sadly...my Alaskan adventure has come to a close. This has been one of the most amazing weeks of my life, and will hopefully be the gateway to many more explorations. I think of those who live here, though the winters are hard, I cannot imagine living amongst such incredible beauty. I hope that they do not take it for granted. It is easy to do so however, and makes me think of all the wonderful things Northern California has to offer that I have yet to experience. Whether the adventure is close to home, or thousands of miles away, I will embrace each one with excited eyes.
As I sit, waiting to board the plane for my journey home...I am saddened to leave, but will remain, Forever changed, Forever grateful, Forever inspired by the majestic beauty of this, the last frontier...Alaska.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Monday, June 27, 2011
Anchorage to Seward, Exit Glacier and Kenai Fiords National Park
Well...my last day of exploration proved not to disappoint. After a bit of breakfast, I hopped in the car and headed south, on the Seward Highway. Just south of Anchorage begins the 40 mile drive down the coast of the Cook Inlet, a drive they call, the Turnagain Arm. This scenic ride has been ranked along side the most notably beautiful drives in the world. I would say...I would definitely agree. Today continued to be overcast, but the clouds created the most amazing landscapes even bright blue sky couldn't rival.
Continuing south, I made my way to Seward, AK. Seward is situated at the head of Resurrection Bay on the Kenai Peninsula and is one of Alaska's oldest and most scenic communities. By the time I reached the town, I was fairly hungry and in the mood to do some shopping. Unfortunately, all of the main business district had no power and all the shops and restaurants were forced to close. Bummer. So instead of eating, I drove back through town and headed west, to the Exit Glacier & Kenai Fiords National Park. This was truly amazing...and since my previous effort to make it to a glacier was thwarted by a bear, I was more than thrilled to make it all the way to the glacier today without incident.
As if the glacier wasn't amazing enough, the Kenai Fiords National Park also proved to be absolutely breathtaking.
Stopping on the way home in the trendy ski town of Girdwood, I finally was able to get some much needed food. Chair 5, a restaurant in town that I had heard good things about lived up to it's reputation. A fun and lively atmosphere, similar to that of a local hangout in Lake Tahoe, was indeed inviting. The seafood puttanesca was out of this world.
I finally made it back to my hotel in Anchorage. Amazed at the day, but saddened by the fact that tomorrow, I will be leaving this magical place and going home. All the more reason to continue adventuring.
Continuing south, I made my way to Seward, AK. Seward is situated at the head of Resurrection Bay on the Kenai Peninsula and is one of Alaska's oldest and most scenic communities. By the time I reached the town, I was fairly hungry and in the mood to do some shopping. Unfortunately, all of the main business district had no power and all the shops and restaurants were forced to close. Bummer. So instead of eating, I drove back through town and headed west, to the Exit Glacier & Kenai Fiords National Park. This was truly amazing...and since my previous effort to make it to a glacier was thwarted by a bear, I was more than thrilled to make it all the way to the glacier today without incident.
As if the glacier wasn't amazing enough, the Kenai Fiords National Park also proved to be absolutely breathtaking.
Stopping on the way home in the trendy ski town of Girdwood, I finally was able to get some much needed food. Chair 5, a restaurant in town that I had heard good things about lived up to it's reputation. A fun and lively atmosphere, similar to that of a local hangout in Lake Tahoe, was indeed inviting. The seafood puttanesca was out of this world.
I finally made it back to my hotel in Anchorage. Amazed at the day, but saddened by the fact that tomorrow, I will be leaving this magical place and going home. All the more reason to continue adventuring.
Sunday, June 26, 2011
On the Road...Anchorage to Chitina, Wrangell Mountain Air & Kennecott!
...These last 2 days (Saturday & Sunday) have been the most amazing since I've been here. If I had one wish these last few days, it would be to be able to record what my eyes have had the privilege to see. There are few words that come to mind to describe the epic scenery, honestly any word I chose would not do it justice.
I began Saturday morning, leaving Anchorage at 830am and heading northeast for the tiny town of Chitina, a trip of about 250 miles. This road trip would prove to be the most amazing drive I've ever taken. Passing soaring peaks, endless glaciers, rivers, lakes, and vast expanses of flower laden tundra. I had to stop many times for pictures.
Along this drive, countless mountain tops rise, often higher than the cloud cover, hiding their peaks. Remnants of glacial ice streams down in deep crevasses. I had to concentrate very intently on driving and watching the road, so as not to crash into a moose as I was staring, mesmerized at nature's masterpieces.
Hundreds of twists and turns brought me to my final stretch of road...the Alaska's State Highway 10, the state's first highway. The seemingly 1,000 mile vistas were the most breathtaking.
Arriving very close to my destination, Chitina, I realized that I had drastically over estimated the time it would take me to get there. I arrived 3 hours earlier than I needed to. Perpetually looking to photo opportunities, which were never in short supply, I came upon Liberty Falls.
When I mentioned Chitina as my destination, what I really mean is that was my final road destination. My actual destination was far beyond my reach by car. I was to be staying at the Kennecott Glacier Lodge, in the old mining village of Kennecott, which sits perched at the edge of the Kennecott Glacier, deep in the wilds of the Wrangell/St. Elias state park. This is the largest State Park in the US, and covers an area more than three times the size of Yellowstone, exactly 8,323,148 acres. The park-preserve includes the continent's largest assemblage of glaciers and the greatest collection of peaks above 16,000 feet, including Mount Saint Elias. At 18,008 feet, it is the second highest peak in the United States. Upon arrival at the Chitina Airstrip, I met my pilot and was off.
The little white, yellow and red plane had 6 tightly fitted seats, including those for the pilot and the co-pilot seat. There were 3 passengers, including myself, and our pilot Martin, who let me sit next to him in the co-pilot chair. It was incredible. Unfortunately, as tightly packed as we were in the plane, I was unable to get out my camera and take the pictures that I wanted to take. Those images will just have to live on in my mind.
Upon landing at the McCarthy Airstrip, just a few miles from Kennecott, the largely overcast sky opened up and the sun peaked through, blanketing the land with a warm glow.
I arrived at Kennecott Glacier Lodge, just before 7pm. Dinner was served family style promptly at 7, so I tossed my bags in my small, but well appointed room and headed down to the dining room. I found my name beside my seat, sat down...and finally breathed. Dinner was spectacular, as well as the dinner company. But beyond the loveliness of the evening, the towering, creaking buildings left over from the copper mine that was once here, could bring chills down your spine. Long weathered by almost 100 years of crippling snow, devastating floods and fires, they are finally being restored so that their history can be seen for years to come.
The next morning, after a fantastic sleep, set to the sound of light rain and the crisp glacial breeze, I got myself ready and went down for an early breakfast. After sufficiently filling myself with eggs, bacon, potatoes and pastry, I decided to hike to the edge of the Glacier, about 2 miles from the lodge. Having had a brief lesson in Bear safety by the girl at the front desk, I was on my way with my camera and a can of Bear Spray. I made it about 1 1/2 miles, but stopped dead in my tracks when I saw fresh droppings, fresh bear tracks and heard rustling in the near brush. Needless to say, I turned around and headed swiftly back to the lodge.
I left Kennecott around 130pm and re-met my pilot for the journey back to my car. The flight, along with the first one, took me within a few hundred feet of sprawling light blue glaciers and snow covered, rocky peaks. In a word, I was speechless.
I got in my car...looking back on the amazement of the last 2 days, and reluctantly headed back to Anchorage. Let's see what tomorrow brings...
I began Saturday morning, leaving Anchorage at 830am and heading northeast for the tiny town of Chitina, a trip of about 250 miles. This road trip would prove to be the most amazing drive I've ever taken. Passing soaring peaks, endless glaciers, rivers, lakes, and vast expanses of flower laden tundra. I had to stop many times for pictures.
Along this drive, countless mountain tops rise, often higher than the cloud cover, hiding their peaks. Remnants of glacial ice streams down in deep crevasses. I had to concentrate very intently on driving and watching the road, so as not to crash into a moose as I was staring, mesmerized at nature's masterpieces.
Hundreds of twists and turns brought me to my final stretch of road...the Alaska's State Highway 10, the state's first highway. The seemingly 1,000 mile vistas were the most breathtaking.
Arriving very close to my destination, Chitina, I realized that I had drastically over estimated the time it would take me to get there. I arrived 3 hours earlier than I needed to. Perpetually looking to photo opportunities, which were never in short supply, I came upon Liberty Falls.
When I mentioned Chitina as my destination, what I really mean is that was my final road destination. My actual destination was far beyond my reach by car. I was to be staying at the Kennecott Glacier Lodge, in the old mining village of Kennecott, which sits perched at the edge of the Kennecott Glacier, deep in the wilds of the Wrangell/St. Elias state park. This is the largest State Park in the US, and covers an area more than three times the size of Yellowstone, exactly 8,323,148 acres. The park-preserve includes the continent's largest assemblage of glaciers and the greatest collection of peaks above 16,000 feet, including Mount Saint Elias. At 18,008 feet, it is the second highest peak in the United States. Upon arrival at the Chitina Airstrip, I met my pilot and was off.
The little white, yellow and red plane had 6 tightly fitted seats, including those for the pilot and the co-pilot seat. There were 3 passengers, including myself, and our pilot Martin, who let me sit next to him in the co-pilot chair. It was incredible. Unfortunately, as tightly packed as we were in the plane, I was unable to get out my camera and take the pictures that I wanted to take. Those images will just have to live on in my mind.
Upon landing at the McCarthy Airstrip, just a few miles from Kennecott, the largely overcast sky opened up and the sun peaked through, blanketing the land with a warm glow.
I arrived at Kennecott Glacier Lodge, just before 7pm. Dinner was served family style promptly at 7, so I tossed my bags in my small, but well appointed room and headed down to the dining room. I found my name beside my seat, sat down...and finally breathed. Dinner was spectacular, as well as the dinner company. But beyond the loveliness of the evening, the towering, creaking buildings left over from the copper mine that was once here, could bring chills down your spine. Long weathered by almost 100 years of crippling snow, devastating floods and fires, they are finally being restored so that their history can be seen for years to come.
The next morning, after a fantastic sleep, set to the sound of light rain and the crisp glacial breeze, I got myself ready and went down for an early breakfast. After sufficiently filling myself with eggs, bacon, potatoes and pastry, I decided to hike to the edge of the Glacier, about 2 miles from the lodge. Having had a brief lesson in Bear safety by the girl at the front desk, I was on my way with my camera and a can of Bear Spray. I made it about 1 1/2 miles, but stopped dead in my tracks when I saw fresh droppings, fresh bear tracks and heard rustling in the near brush. Needless to say, I turned around and headed swiftly back to the lodge.
I left Kennecott around 130pm and re-met my pilot for the journey back to my car. The flight, along with the first one, took me within a few hundred feet of sprawling light blue glaciers and snow covered, rocky peaks. In a word, I was speechless.
I got in my car...looking back on the amazement of the last 2 days, and reluctantly headed back to Anchorage. Let's see what tomorrow brings...
Friday, June 24, 2011
Chena Hot Springs, Ice Museum and MOOSE!
Thursday afternoon...after battling a bit of a cold, I made my way about 70 miles north, into the wilderness to the Chena Hot Springs Resort.
It started raining on the drive up, but even through the rain and fog, it was a beautiful ride. I checked into my room in the 102 building...the lodging here is kind of dormitory style, but well appointed and comfortable. Since it was raining...the first thing on my agenda was a tour of the Ice Museum.
This is a year-round museum open 365 days a year. The owner of this whole resort is a scientist specializing in Geo-Thermal energy. The interior of the museum is a balmy 20F. As we stepped in, the walls were lined with parkas...to keep us warm for the 45 minutes we were to be inside.
Local artists have created amazing ice sculptures inside.
As a special treat, you are served a very special Ice-tini in your very own ice martini glass. You sit on Caribou hide covered ice stools at the Aurora Ice Bar. It was quite an experience...and a VERY strong drink.
There are four ice hotel rooms in the Ice Museum which you can reserve for $600 per night. The beds are made of solid ice, but are covered with Caribou hide and arctic sleeping bags. One of the beds is shaped like a polar bear, and you sleep on his belly!
After the museum tour I needed to warm up a bit, so I went to dinner at the resort restaurant and had myself some AMAZING smoked salmon pasta and a few cocktails.
Friday morning, I woke up (after a fantastic night's sleep) to the sun shining bright and a beautiful blue sky. I had to take advantage of the hot springs. There is a rock lake that is fed by the natural spring and it was amazing. I didn't take photos close up of the lake, didn't want to seem like a peeper. =)
After toweling off, I wanted to take a nature walk...though I was warned about a very recent bear sighting close by, so I didn't go very far. But I didn't see some fun signs along the way.
Walking back to my room...to pack up and get ready to check out...there were a few visitors to the resort. Mama Moose and her little Moose. Amazing.
As I wait for my ride back to Fairbanks, where I'll hop a flight to Anchorage...I sit in great appreciation for the opportunity to come here, and revel in the seemingly endless beauty of this land.
It started raining on the drive up, but even through the rain and fog, it was a beautiful ride. I checked into my room in the 102 building...the lodging here is kind of dormitory style, but well appointed and comfortable. Since it was raining...the first thing on my agenda was a tour of the Ice Museum.
This is a year-round museum open 365 days a year. The owner of this whole resort is a scientist specializing in Geo-Thermal energy. The interior of the museum is a balmy 20F. As we stepped in, the walls were lined with parkas...to keep us warm for the 45 minutes we were to be inside.
Local artists have created amazing ice sculptures inside.
As a special treat, you are served a very special Ice-tini in your very own ice martini glass. You sit on Caribou hide covered ice stools at the Aurora Ice Bar. It was quite an experience...and a VERY strong drink.
There are four ice hotel rooms in the Ice Museum which you can reserve for $600 per night. The beds are made of solid ice, but are covered with Caribou hide and arctic sleeping bags. One of the beds is shaped like a polar bear, and you sleep on his belly!
After the museum tour I needed to warm up a bit, so I went to dinner at the resort restaurant and had myself some AMAZING smoked salmon pasta and a few cocktails.
Friday morning, I woke up (after a fantastic night's sleep) to the sun shining bright and a beautiful blue sky. I had to take advantage of the hot springs. There is a rock lake that is fed by the natural spring and it was amazing. I didn't take photos close up of the lake, didn't want to seem like a peeper. =)
After toweling off, I wanted to take a nature walk...though I was warned about a very recent bear sighting close by, so I didn't go very far. But I didn't see some fun signs along the way.
Walking back to my room...to pack up and get ready to check out...there were a few visitors to the resort. Mama Moose and her little Moose. Amazing.
As I wait for my ride back to Fairbanks, where I'll hop a flight to Anchorage...I sit in great appreciation for the opportunity to come here, and revel in the seemingly endless beauty of this land.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
The Great Alaska Pipeline, The Arctic Circle...and Mosquitos!
The day began as my alarm went off at 5am. I just got into Fairbanks yesterday afternoon...and after a brief walk downtown, I went to bed super early. The plan for the day was to take a guided tour up to the Arctic Circle...checked in for my tour at 6am...and off we went at 630.
It was a medium sized "coach/bus" and I was 1 of 23 fellow explorers venturing to the Arctic Circle. Our tour guide/driver was Alan, a super nice, very talkative older gentleman. He was full of stories and some VERY detailed information about Alaska history, politics, wildlife...just about everything.
The first stop, about an hour and a half into the drive, was a little...and when I say little, I mean LITTLE, place called Joy.
A little leg stretch, a blueberry muffin and a visit to the outhouse and we were back on the road. Before I go any further, I should say that this was an ALL DAY tour. Lots of time sitting on the "coach/bus".
A few more vista stops later and we get to our lunch spot, just after we crossed the Yukon River.
A cold turkey sandwich and some doritos...another visit to the outhouse...and we were again on our way.
The sheer vastness of this land is incredible. There are no power lines, just land...as far as the eye can see.
OH, and the Great Alaska Pipeline. The Pipeline follows the Dalton Highway (which was created when the Pipeline was being built, and is also the only road through the interior of Alaska that goes all the way north). It was indeed a very cool thing to see.
A few more vista stops later, we reach the Arctic Circle...we reached this point about 7 hours after our tour began...lots of "coach/bus" time. We literally crossed it, got out, took pictures, then turned around. But at least I can say I've crossed the Arctic Circle (they even gave us certificates stating that fact).
We cruised back the same route, stopping at a few more vista points before stopping for dinner. Horseradish Crusted Halibut served over Polenta and steamed veggies was on my menu...and it was delicious. By now the rain had started, but the view was still amazing. Still more vista points...and we finally arrived at our starting point in Fairbanks...a good 15 hours after the trip began.
To backtrack for a second...now, I've experience some significant mosquito situations having lived in western New York. For those of you who haven't experienced this, or who haven't been to Alaska...let me fill you in. We've all randomly walked through a small swarm of gnats...swatted them out of our faces and moved on. Well...in Alaska, especially up on the wet tundra, it's like that...but they are mosquitos, and they are RELENTLESS! Ugh...needless to say, Deep Woods OFF is a GOOD THING up here.
It was an amazing and humbling day. Glad to be back in my room, awaiting my next adventure tomorrow. Oh and by the way...this is what it looks like outside my room at MIDNIGHT!
It was a medium sized "coach/bus" and I was 1 of 23 fellow explorers venturing to the Arctic Circle. Our tour guide/driver was Alan, a super nice, very talkative older gentleman. He was full of stories and some VERY detailed information about Alaska history, politics, wildlife...just about everything.
The first stop, about an hour and a half into the drive, was a little...and when I say little, I mean LITTLE, place called Joy.
A little leg stretch, a blueberry muffin and a visit to the outhouse and we were back on the road. Before I go any further, I should say that this was an ALL DAY tour. Lots of time sitting on the "coach/bus".
A few more vista stops later and we get to our lunch spot, just after we crossed the Yukon River.
A cold turkey sandwich and some doritos...another visit to the outhouse...and we were again on our way.
The sheer vastness of this land is incredible. There are no power lines, just land...as far as the eye can see.
OH, and the Great Alaska Pipeline. The Pipeline follows the Dalton Highway (which was created when the Pipeline was being built, and is also the only road through the interior of Alaska that goes all the way north). It was indeed a very cool thing to see.
A few more vista stops later, we reach the Arctic Circle...we reached this point about 7 hours after our tour began...lots of "coach/bus" time. We literally crossed it, got out, took pictures, then turned around. But at least I can say I've crossed the Arctic Circle (they even gave us certificates stating that fact).
We cruised back the same route, stopping at a few more vista points before stopping for dinner. Horseradish Crusted Halibut served over Polenta and steamed veggies was on my menu...and it was delicious. By now the rain had started, but the view was still amazing. Still more vista points...and we finally arrived at our starting point in Fairbanks...a good 15 hours after the trip began.
To backtrack for a second...now, I've experience some significant mosquito situations having lived in western New York. For those of you who haven't experienced this, or who haven't been to Alaska...let me fill you in. We've all randomly walked through a small swarm of gnats...swatted them out of our faces and moved on. Well...in Alaska, especially up on the wet tundra, it's like that...but they are mosquitos, and they are RELENTLESS! Ugh...needless to say, Deep Woods OFF is a GOOD THING up here.
It was an amazing and humbling day. Glad to be back in my room, awaiting my next adventure tomorrow. Oh and by the way...this is what it looks like outside my room at MIDNIGHT!
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